Mexico City: Gay Gringos Engorge

New friends at Tom's Leather Bar!

The frenetic, friendly La Cuidad de Mexico is among my top 5 favorite land-locked destinations – rivaled in the Americas only by Sao Paulo and Bogota. Of course, it doesn’t hurt to be a gringo – that is, exotic in such a spot. Whether they offer each other seats on a bus – or even to you first – or eagerly provide directions (even if they don’t have the right ones) everyone tries to help you. Mexico City offers the most inexpensive, manageable big city with a giant gay scene in the Americas – with amazing food and the best people in the world.

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Yumm molé!

While the temperature here at a higher altitude stays relatively constant (and never very cold, or very hot) heavy rains from June through October (though the sun shines through between downpours) mean you should plan your visit for early spring or late fall. Pride in June is typically includes rain – but when you’re around so many smiling faces, the rain doesn't matter! My recent 2 week visit around Halloween and El dia de los Muertos (another exciting – and gay – period; you know gays love costume!) only had a couple brief periods of rain – definitely my recommendation for a time to go!

Can't beat those tacos - just drink them with beer, not the water!

While the first reason to come to Mexico City is for the people – the second is definitely for the food. Try the 6 different types of Mole – or have the incredible tacos or tamales. You like spicy things right? That’s what truly makes some of the foods – but others won’t need it. For a reasonable good place in the center try the sopa at La Parroquia (Centro Historico location). Feeling like kitsch-old fashioned but yummy meal? Get the Chiles de Nogada at the Hosteria de Santa Domingo. It’s true that especially for those with untraveled tummies may have trouble here. My advice is always just to have a beer with your meal – or perhaps a margarita or mojito! Although I’m not a beer drinker most everyone is here – try Indio or Victoria for great darker selections (that’s usually my choice) – and add the michelada (usually lime & spices) to make it more Mexican! Remember in mexico our limes (green) are called "lemon" - I'm still unclear if they have (yellow) lemons!

Dependable fun, each night of the week, karaoke & drag!

The gay scene is divided basically into three areas – enough to truly provide something for everyone, the traditional “Zona Rosa” (PinkZone) has a number of bars and a few clubs where you can go anytime. Papi or next door at Candyland for a drink and lively music or Cabaré-Tito for a drag show any night, karaoke also there or over at Touch. Country Western? Vaqueros. Weekends find the 18+ crowd (who can drink here) at Lollipop or try Kinky. The problem is that there are few places to get decent food in this area. However, I used Kemi Pizza as my base of operations because they had dollar (13 pesos) slices and free wi-fi that worked next store at Papi.

Gritty gay clubs in the center!

In the city center, La Purisima and Marrakech on the weekends (especially on Thursday nights, when it's still packed but not ridiculous) anchor a grittier gay section. Honestly, I stayed in the grittier parts – and attended Halloween parties – so I missed the regular weekend in the city. After hours, meaning 4am and on - go to Teatro Garibaldi - friends will guide you there. Across town in the rich area, Polanco is where you’ll find posh clubs, drink prices on par with NYC and you should probably wear more than just graphic T. Main clubs Envy for Friday’s and GUILT every Saturday both require $20 cover – and come early – at 11pm since it fills up fast.  If you truly want to be fancy you can reserve a table!

8 bucks for a vodka pitcher!

Outside of any particular area - but still downtown - include Tom’s Leather bar which is packed full of not only older but younger guys on Tuesday nights (and often gives out free entry if you stay till the end, for the following week) and Club 52, a cool venue and decent party on Wednesdays (enjoy one of these cocktail pitchers - like 4 drinks for $8! If you want a map of every spot - check out this google map of the many flagged locations - but be sure to double check things often change. Also Time Out has a great section on gay Mexico City - if you speak spanish!

Friendliness abounds – but sometimes (especially as a gringo) this might also mean drama. As I drunkenly danced (as well as up on stage) with new friends La Purisima on a Thursday – an adorable (young) guy and I started to exchange glances – but when I approached his friend pointed out his (also dashing) boyfriend. I backed off – but my guy still kept grabbing me behind his bf’s back! Somehow I managed to give him my card (yep, it does take two) and days later he Facebooked me and we met up in Zona Rosa for dinner. He told me he broke up with his boyfriend – but guess what happened when we sat down at the only decent, very popular & gay spot in the pink zone Casa de Toño and - his ex sent a picture of us, moments earlier – walking arm and arm along the main gay street Amberes…  He still messages me daily – and I’m thankful for the great Spanish practice! He wants me to come live with him in Mexico City… I’m sure you can guess how old he is.

Protests for the disappeared close the city center

Despite all the fun and frivolity – Mexico City can be but an island of functionality, [marriage] equality and general prosperity juxtaposed against a backdrop of drug-cartel-controlled surrounding areas. September 26 will go down in history as a major flash-point – that day Iguala city police (just 130 miles outside of Mexico City) rounded up 43 student protesters and handed them over to brutal drug traffickers who allegedly then tortured and killed the students, burning and dumping their remains. Thousands of Mexicans have disappeared (even a friend noted he knew someone hiding from drug lords because he refused to pay a tribute). This egregious massacre turned heads and hearts. Yet, with the drug trade alive and well – (due also to use in the US) it’s still unclear what it will take to change the power of drug cartels.

While I was there, students from every school in Mexico City marched in a protest-parade to call attention to the many disappearances across the country. It was incredible to see the main thoroughfare of the city closed and filled with agitated people shouting for justice – this may disrupt transportation – be wary of the subways during these periods – and also rush hour (especially the central pink line). Unless you don’t mind being squeezed into subway cars and jostled!

Teotihuacan - Pyramids of the Americas

If you need to duck out from the hustle – take a trip over to UNESCO site Teotihuacan to see some of the “Pirimides” some of the oldest structures in North America. Definitely worth the 1-2 hour bus trip (and $4 ride) take a friend and enjoy the beautiful stonework – and the grand sight. Although this is one of those, check-off-the-box places – meaning I’m not likely to go back unless I’m showing a close friend – it’s definitely worth seeing!

While it may be in some general (justified) upheaval over the recent disappearances– Mexico City itself seems as safe as any big city can be – and the vast majority of its people will always bend over backwards to help you if you do find yourself in a jam (although don’t trust those taxi-drivers, watch for your destination on GPS!). And you don’t really need to worry about the narcos if you’re not Mexican – but of course be mindful of your surroundings. Easier still to simply find yourself a guide – some Mexicans are so generous they will beg you to be at your side!

Video coming soon - my coup - dancing on stage with
Spanish DJ/drag group "Que Trabaje Rita" in Mexico City

Global Equality in NYC: An Uprising of Love

Post-show Jane Lynch talks with the press

Monday night’s climax wasn’t with headliners Sting – who got screams for “Every Breath You Take” – or Patti LuPone’s roaring “Not While I’m Around” – but when 17-year-old openly gay Russian Vladislav Slaviskiy walked confidently on stage to discuss how pleased he was not to be in Russia. You could imagine director Dustin Lance Black smiling big as the audience, teased with clips of “Vlad” telling his story of torture (stoned and even urinated on) at school back in Sochi, now rose to its feet in a prolonged standing ovation to appreciate this aspiring LGBTI activist. We couldn’t help but love him. Musicians and thespians united before the Sochi Olympics to create Uprising of Love to shed light on the LGBTI community in Russia – also help this young man tell his difficult story – and ultimately flee.

Final performance of Englishman in New York

Tonight, with a broader agenda to help all LGBTI people abroad, Uprising directed funds to the Astraea Foundation, giving grants to LGBTI organizations worldwide, in a program called Fueling the Frontlines. Jane Lynch pleaded that we not be blinded from the difficulties faced by gay people abroad by the recent successes gained here at home. Vlad’s story highlighted those difficulties and is part of a documentary organized by Olympian Johnny Weir. Called “To Russia with Love” it will air October 29th on EPIX. Ultimately, Billie Jean King – part of President Obama’s (very gay) U.S.Delegation to Sochi – helped Vlad get a visa and become a student at her alma-mater, Cal State University.

Distributing flyers in Hell's Kitchen

As Vlad tugged at our heart-strings with his struggle to be openly gay in repressive Russia, Kathy Najimy demanded us to open our wallets & pocketbooks for LGBTI people abroad, dividing gays in attendance to the power, A-listers: “donate what you spent on sushi and uber today,” for the party boys: “at least you could donate 3 mojitos,” and (of course) women: “triple the amount you’re about to spend at Bed, Bath & Beyond after your first date.” While distributing flyers for the event, so many people couldn't believe the star-studded line up. Some tourists took convincing but the combo of Sting & Patti brought both gays & straights on board.

Diverse performers included the cast of Witness Uganda with their hit “Njakuangula” - “I will rise,” the first openly lesbian country singer Chely Wright with "It was," Boolywood actress Celina Jaitly singing (for the first time live) the LGBTI advocacy anthem from India, Billy Porter with “I am Changing,” the cast of Once singing the original (amazing) song Melissa Etheridge wrote for the cause - “Uprising” and an incredible rendition of “For Good” with one of the original Elphabas - Stephanie J. Block. The blockbuster list of celebrities – including a video of thanks and support from UN Secretary General Ban Ki-Moon – even got a nod from the Wall Street Journal!

Workin' my glutes - Aqua Spin
for LGBTI rights!

Coincidently, the International Gay & Lesbian Human Rights Commission (IGLHRC) also held a fundraising event the next day. Not as glamorous, this low-key fundraiser/exercise class enticed attendees with a unique spin class underwater (Aqua Spin)! Held by IGLHRC's Young Professionals Committee (look for events soon!), the event attracted dozens to show off post-summer tans. With a mission to document specific abuses of LGBTI people abroad and bring this data to the UN and other NGOs and governments, IGLHRC acts as the brains behind the fight for LGBTI people abroad - Uprising of Love might be the brawn, bringing celebrities to attract attention to the cause. Married together both organizations contribute to exposing people to the truth about the LGBTI community.

Jane Lynch ran away before I could get a picture...

While hate and misinformation continues to cause hardship for LGBTI people, it’s most important for us to keep in mind one last critical song from Monday’s Gershwin program, “Tired of the Silence” – from the cast of I Am Harvey Milk – which urges us all to come out. That’s the key, because if we are not understood by our families, friends and colleagues, how else can they understand the LGBTI community. I know it continues to be difficult for my many friends abroad to do this – I stand with them and with Vlad to repeat his last words on stage: he’s not finished because while he’s glad to be in the United States, this is not his home.

But he’s doing pretty well, as he closed the show, center-stage, standing tall and holding Stings hand as they jammed to the final song, “Englishman in New York," with the perfect lyric "Be yourself, no matter what they say."

Give to IGLHRC!

Give to Fueling the Frontlines!

Badajoz, Spain: Homophobes Eat Their Words

In 2011, the then-mayor of Badajoz said he didn’t want any “palomos cojos” (literal translation: lame birds; real translation: fags) in his town. Thus, a TV host in Madrid decided to organize a gay party in Badajoz and call it Los Palomos Cojos – or now just Los Palomos. Now this spring party in this ancient and unique Spanish border town has become a Spain-wide LGBT event; 2015 will be its 5th year. The biggest attraction for me was the incredible park space for the party – spread-wide with beautiful palm trees – it could have been Miami or California (just replace the water with a beautiful view of the town below). Spaniards love their fiestas – most even stay Catholic just for the parties – this one measures up to the rest!

However, the event is not widely known outside of the LGBT community – my friend who livesin Madrid knew because he’s from Badajoz and he invited me to visit his friends & family in the city as well! Alex comes from an adorable         middle-class family – I had the chance to visit and awkwardly decide how to greet his dad (kisses? No, not necessary). Plus I spent an evening with the extended family – who were (of course) very excited to meet me and test my Spanish!

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I arrived from Malaga, where I finished up my Spanish courses (this was to be my final weekend in Spain!). Taking (very convenient) Bla-Bla car with two women who also were traveling the 6 hours just to attend the party. My arrival was a bit difficult – Alex is the only Spaniard who uses the phone to talk instead of What’s App – but I didn’t have any phone credit left! One thing you learn fast is that you need patience – and something to pass the time – when trying to meet up with Spaniards. But of course he eventually found me and welcomed me to his friend’s spare room in the city center (so we could party and come home late) – we would meet his family for a big lovely meal before the party on Saturday at an authentic Spanish restaurant outside of town.

Badajoz City Square - Los Palomos eve

To start the weekend, Friday we wandered the city center – and saw the celebratory lights in the square. The party is no longer held here after outgrowing the space – where thousands of people in the square became a hazard. I discovered I had another Spanish friend who was coming all the way from Sevilla – he and some friends heard that this was a fab

gay party!

Party scene - haciendo el botellión

After a light night out – with a number of Alex’s girlfriends – we prepared Saturday for the big evening. Although you can buy drinks inside – of course with the crisis in full affect, most Spaniards brought their own drinks. The (very strange) rule here was simply that they could not have caps on the drinks – and naturally only plastic was allowed. Still we smuggled in tops for each of our drinks! During festivals in Spain they relax the rules for drinking in public – and everyone “does the bottle” – “hace el botellion” which means sharing a bottle of liquor on the street – usually whiskey but vodka or rum too – with cups, ice and mixers. And you can buy these items in a set along the street or square during most festivals.

Entering the beautiful, Palm-tree-lined grounds of the Castle of Badajoz we found a spot in the grass and pulled out our cups to begin drinking the evening away! Quickly it was clear that although it was definitely a gay party, not surprisingly, all the young people in town had turned out just to enjoy it! It doesn’t much matter if it’s gay or not – Spaniards are down to enjoy a fiesta anytime. This made the game of “gay or European” pretty difficult for me – but I still made new friends, hung-out with Alex and his crew and enjoyed the music.

Mucho mas que una fiesta!

Half-way through the evening, we moved down from the Castle area to the, wide Carretera Circunvalción; a stage was erected at the town’s Puerta de Palmas. A DJ spun various beats until people were so drunk they were beating each other up! Yes, this became more of just a party – and not as gay on this wide street. But back up near the Castle, drag queens sang and gay festivities continued, including hit drag ensemble, Que Trabaje Rita. I ended up making a friend – a known gay of Badajoz who took me on a little adventure to a dank spare room in his grandparents apartment complex. Interesting spot to “make-out” – but Spanish boys make-do with what they have. Most here still live at home and I count myself very lucky to have met my friend Alex who’s thriving as a journalist in Madrid.

Hungover and sleepy the next day, we pulled ourselves together and found another Bla-Bla back to gay Mecca: Madrid – to soak up my last few days of Spain, my favorite country in the world!

Oman: Palm Springs Without the Party

The Beautiful Wadis of Oman!

Partied out? Looking for a break in one of the world's most beautiful spots? Trek into a gorgeous canyon with a rainbow of rock colors – jump into bathwater pools lined with Palm trees – swim with friends from around the world. Oman is probably safest place in the Middle East where you could enjoy such things – but you’ll pay for it! This oil-rich, hyper-developed nouveau riche nation has all the luxury items – from all the best cars (and accompanying quality roads) to global cuisine (though not yet perfect; guest-worker Pakistanis have not quite mastered Mexican). I kept saying it’s like “ultra-conservative California” – but definitely hotter. Plus, the default-closeted guys are likely to be ready and willing to make new friends. Islam doesn’t mesh well with the “gay-lifestyle” but somehow it seems they’re able to be even more hypocritical than Roman Catholics!

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Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque

I spent a little over a week enjoying the heat and exploring the Muscat area, including its gay subculture. Day one was a trip to the Grand Mosque – an imposing, beautiful structure. But the friendly woman at the welcome center who tried to explain away the (much) smaller women’s prayer hall by telling me women held more duties at home – didn’t really sell me on the Muslim faith. There must be better ways – and better sides to the faith, right? Sadly, homosexuality still hasn’t been reconciled either – I’m not sure how it all will. It’s certainly true that sex between men occurs here – even if afterwards they go home to wives and traditional families!

Closest thing to a gay flag in Oman

Vancouver - A-Boot Time for Fun!

Recovery Pride Cruise with my new friends!

How about an extremely livable destination – with beautiful, sunny summers? Vancouver offers a lot – from its breathtaking mountain and harbor views to close-knit gay life. This extension north from the “left-coast” strikes an even better balance than its hippie, environmentally-friendly, brother cities to the south (Seattle, Portland, San Fran). Combining both a very artsy feel with a “business professional” sense; it’s home to one of Canada’s (and the worlds) best schools, UBC (for example). Somehow, in the span of two weeks, Vancouver won out San Francisco – and became my favorite west coast city, because of its (summer) weather – along with all the great things that San Fran offers, only smaller, cleaner and warmer. You can have a smaller-town feel inside a big city in a gorgeous location – And you like sushi right? Outdoorsy rice-queens, eat-up!

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The gay center is Davie Street – and the gayborhood that surrounds, Davie Village – where shops, grocery stores, restaurants, hotels, bars and clubs all share pink bus stops and trash bins. Plus, there's a rainbow-painted intersection at Davie and Bute Street and permanent rainbow LED lights line the sidewalks! This street alone is adequate for your city/urban entertainment needs, but you’ll want to get out and enjoy the mountains in North Vancouver (and beyond) as well as the beaches of English Bay. You would think the water is ice-cold – but it’s more refreshing (of course, in the summer only). Despite the fact that during winter months – October to April – it is cloudy 70% of the time, outside of winter (and especially July and August) you can expect sun almost always; in 2013 it did not rain all of July.

Davie & Bute Street

Greek Isles: Ferries Galore - Fairies Explore

When you set out on your Blue Star Ferry – the style doesn’t match the view. These incredible islands with bright, white-washed homes contrasted against the deep, magnificent blue sea likely make for some of the most beautiful scenes in the world. It’s surprising that ferries are not more comfortable – yet when you see these islands you realize, you don’t need luxury to provide luxuriousness. Here nature provides. After spending time in Thessoloniki and Athens (my previous blog), I set out to sea!

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Santorini

An eruption over 3600 years
ago caused this beautiful
exposed rock

Santorini (or Thira to the locals) comprises the most incredible, dramatic views that I have ever seen. Some theorize that this is the site of the famed ancient city of Atlantis that fell into the sea. The island imploded due to a powerful volcanic eruption 3600 years ago, destroying the Minoan Civilization. The explosion exposed beautiful colored rock and this contrast between blue sea, red rock and white-washed homes makes Santorini the most beautiful place in the world.

View from our beautiful "cave" hotel

Thus, the best place in the world to view Sunset:  Franco’s Café in Pyrgos, Santorini (if you’re just a couple) or out at the northern tip of the island at Oia (Ee-ya) – if you don't mind a crowd. You can also head down the cliff (though you have to watch your step, instead of the view, along the donkey-poo lined path). Eat at the restaurant to the far left for some exquisite grilled squid or octopus as the sky turns purple. During the daytime, come for a swim or take a ferry to take in views from the other side of the caldera or the volcano.

Greece: Laying Bare the Mainland And On Beaches

Ruins among apartment buildings in Thessaloniki

If you truly want a trip to reflect and relax, enjoy natural beauty, gasp at fantastic views, ponder the past and simply feel alive, Greece provides. So long as you have patience and can ease easily into the Mediterranean mind-set – the birthplace of western civilization lives up to the hype. It’s Athens ancient history that attracts us, yet it’s tumultuous recent past has a much greater influence on today's society. Despite a lack of LGBT openness (even the police!?) and an initial hesitation in meeting new people (Greeks may generally be friendly, but not quite warm at first) – Greece’s location, between East & West, provides diversity in the (hot) people, (ruin-ed) architecture and (of course) food.

Headed to the Greek Isles first? Check out my subsequent blog (and video) here.

Thessaloniki

Gay-face takes root 300 B.C.

After a surprisingly enjoyable (friendly, liberal & beautiful!) stay in (often forgotten) Bulgaria, I arrived to Greece in Thessaloniki – basically a relaxed beach town (even if it’s Greece’s second largest city). Immediately you’re struck by the mosaic of history in parts & pieces throughout the city. Not knowing much about the historical details (maybe none are even known) – you’re still forced to reckon with it because it’s there, bare, worn in front of you. Ancient columns, beautiful sculpture, preserved & uncovered courts, thrones and temples - plus sometimes the guys even live up to those chiseled statutes!

For a city of a million, Thess measured-up with a small gay nightlife – sadly I only had a few nights to experience it. There are a few bars & listed restaurants but I mainly experienced the club, En Ola (translates basically to "Alive") it's Facebook works too! It has a unique, lit-up wall, visible in this terrible vid (showing why not to hire go-go boys as performance dancers), but for me it was difficult to meet people with loud music blaring and on a slow weekday night. Still, I chatted up an adorable scruffy-twink (possible?) – though soon after he was walking home with his friends.

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