Oman: Palm Springs Without the Party

The Beautiful Wadis of Oman!

Partied out? Looking for a break in one of the world's most beautiful spots? Trek into a gorgeous canyon with a rainbow of rock colors – jump into bathwater pools lined with Palm trees – swim with friends from around the world. Oman is probably safest place in the Middle East where you could enjoy such things – but you’ll pay for it! This oil-rich, hyper-developed nouveau riche nation has all the luxury items – from all the best cars (and accompanying quality roads) to global cuisine (though not yet perfect; guest-worker Pakistanis have not quite mastered Mexican). I kept saying it’s like “ultra-conservative California” – but definitely hotter. Plus, the default-closeted guys are likely to be ready and willing to make new friends. Islam doesn’t mesh well with the “gay-lifestyle” but somehow it seems they’re able to be even more hypocritical than Roman Catholics!

For more Free LGBT news & info - subscribe to my weekly gay travel news brief!

Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque

I spent a little over a week enjoying the heat and exploring the Muscat area, including its gay subculture. Day one was a trip to the Grand Mosque – an imposing, beautiful structure. But the friendly woman at the welcome center who tried to explain away the (much) smaller women’s prayer hall by telling me women held more duties at home – didn’t really sell me on the Muslim faith. There must be better ways – and better sides to the faith, right? Sadly, homosexuality still hasn’t been reconciled either – I’m not sure how it all will. It’s certainly true that sex between men occurs here – even if afterwards they go home to wives and traditional families!

Closest thing to a gay flag in Oman

What could be more exotic than having a guy toss off sandals, pull back an exquisitely embroidered cap & peel back the folds of glowing white robe to get down? Most men still wear the traditional dishdasha, a bright-white garment (with sometimes no under-garment – depending on the heat) and (really cute) hat, called a Kimah. Some younger people also wear western attire – but it seems tradition is more comfortable. It doesn't surprise me that a country so uniquely dressed is also lead by a gay Sultan (it’s rumored)! One guy I met even said he felt things would change, if only because western TV reaches the population. Though he told me he’s not out, he felt optimistic because his younger brother at least understands the concept of marriage equality based on what's on TV.

Me and my Kimah

Gay bars certainly cannot exist – but somewhat surprisingly (given Islamic prohibitions against alcohol) – bars do. And where there are bars – and especially international bars – you will often find gays. One good bet is the Intercontinental, where the bar includes a small dance floor with piped-in music (who knows maybe even a DJ sometimes!). A luxury, since recently live music was outlawed! If you want to see a performance you’re confined to the stunning Royal Opera House – also introduced by this “new-age” sultan – where popular international acts are invited. Too bad he has to compromise with the clerics – who thankfully have yet to find Grindr! Since mid 2013, the law has left empty stages and dance floors in many restaurants and bars - and put some out of business. 

Days into my trip – which was prompted because of my friend studying Arabic there – I realized I also had an Omani Facebook friend. Long ago, I created the Gay Eagle Scout group on Facebook just as a forum for gay Eagle Scouts to connect & commiserate (I am also one). This Omani reached out – apparently they have Scouting in Oman – and so he welcomed me and took me around his city! We took photos outside the major palace, visited the compact Bait al Baranda Museum and walked around the market where and he taught me all about the medicinal properties of frankincense and bought me a Kimah!

Driving into the wadi

For a week get-away you won’t mind a break from urban life. I took three day-trips – twice out to the spectacular “wadi” – scenic canyons lined irrigation systems bringing water to (my favorite) palm trees. The drive or hike in is breathtaking and this area is unique because the rock ridges are angled (its apparently a geologist’s heaven) – with a rainbow of multicolored layers exposed. Four-wheel drive is helpful so you can fully explore these canyons (a bit more rapidly & coolly) and go wild with that Digital SLR. Then get out and enjoy swimming through canyons, climbing up waterfalls and cliff jumping (for the daring). 

Incredible rock formations

You’ll meet people from all over – tons of (mostly families) from Europe, Australia, Asia and, of course, locals. They all come to enjoy time together with the scenery – but make sure you visit between October and May; otherwise you'll fry. My final excursion was out to the desert to see the unending sand. With the right driver (and remember to deflate the tires some) enjoy spinning out in the dunes, hanging out with Bedouin and picturing those tough, humped creatures. 

Obviously, this is not the place to "party" in the western sense – for fun Omanis have coffee or a meal together, hang out along Al Shati Street on the ocean at night, play football (soccer) by the beach or go outside the city to their villages to enjoy friends and family. But they do so with some of the most spectacular views. You can also eat great Middle Eastern cuisine, decent Asian – and even American food. This is a place to enjoy nature and reconnect with family or friends – especially if you like the heat and can stand the contrast into readily available AC.

Driving around never-ending sand dunes