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| New friends at Tom's Leather Bar! |
The frenetic, friendly La Cuidad de Mexico is among my top 5
favorite land-locked destinations – rivaled in the Americas only by Sao Paulo
and Bogota. Of course, it doesn’t hurt to be a gringo – that is, exotic in such
a spot. Whether they offer each other seats on a bus – or even to you first –
or eagerly provide directions (even if they don’t have the right ones) everyone
tries to help you. Mexico City offers the most inexpensive, manageable big
city with a giant gay scene in the Americas – with amazing food and the best people in the world.
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| Yumm molé! |
While the temperature here at a higher altitude stays relatively
constant (and never very cold, or very hot) heavy rains from June through
October (though the sun shines through between downpours) mean you should plan
your visit for early spring or late fall. Pride in June is typically includes
rain – but when you’re around so many smiling faces, the rain doesn't matter! My recent 2 week visit around Halloween and
El dia de los Muertos (another
exciting – and gay – period; you know gays love costume!) only had a couple brief
periods of rain – definitely my recommendation for a time to go!
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| Can't beat those tacos - just drink them with beer, not the water! |
While the first reason to come to Mexico City is for the
people – the second is definitely for the food. Try the 6 different types of
Mole – or have the incredible tacos or tamales. You like spicy things right? That’s what
truly makes some of the foods – but others won’t need it. For a reasonable good
place in the center try the sopa at
La Parroquia (Centro Historico
location). Feeling like kitsch-old fashioned but yummy meal? Get the Chiles de
Nogada at the
Hosteria de Santa Domingo. It’s true that especially for those
with untraveled tummies may have trouble here. My advice is always just to have a beer with your meal – or
perhaps a margarita or mojito! Although I’m not a beer drinker most everyone is
here – try Indio or Victoria for great darker selections (that’s usually my
choice) – and add the
michelada (usually lime & spices) to make it more Mexican! Remember in mexico our limes (green) are called "lemon" - I'm still unclear if they have (yellow) lemons!
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| Dependable fun, each night of the week, karaoke & drag! |
The gay scene is divided basically into three areas – enough
to truly provide something for everyone, the traditional
“Zona Rosa” (PinkZone) has a number of bars and a few clubs where you can go anytime.
Papi or next door at Candyland for a drink and lively music or
Cabaré-Tito for a drag show any
night, karaoke also there or over at
Touch. Country Western?
Vaqueros. Weekends
find the 18+ crowd (who can drink here) at
Lollipop or try
Kinky. The
problem is that there are few places to get decent food in this area. However,
I used
Kemi Pizza as my base of operations because they had dollar (13 pesos) slices and
free wi-fi that worked next store at Papi.
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| Gritty gay clubs in the center! |
In the city center,
La Purisima and
Marrakech on the weekends
(especially on Thursday nights, when it's still packed but not ridiculous) anchor a grittier gay section.
Honestly, I stayed in the grittier parts – and attended Halloween parties – so
I missed the regular weekend in the city. After hours, meaning 4am and on - go to Teatro Garibaldi - friends will guide you there. Across town in the rich area,
Polanco is where you’ll find posh
clubs, drink prices on par with NYC and you should probably wear more than
just graphic T. Main clubs
Envy for Friday’s and
GUILT every Saturday both require $20 cover – and come early – at 11pm since it fills up fast.
If you truly want to be fancy you can reserve a table!
Friendliness abounds – but sometimes (especially as a
gringo) this might also mean drama. As I drunkenly danced (as well as up on
stage) with new friends La Purisima on a Thursday – an adorable (young) guy and
I started to exchange glances – but when I approached his friend pointed out
his (also dashing) boyfriend. I backed off – but my guy still kept grabbing me
behind his bf’s back! Somehow I managed to give him my card (yep, it does take two) and days later he Facebooked me and we met up in Zona Rosa for dinner. He told me
he broke up with his boyfriend – but guess what happened when we sat down at the
only decent, very popular & gay spot in the pink zone
Casa de Toño and - his
ex sent a picture of us, moments earlier –
walking arm and arm along the main gay street Amberes…
He still messages me daily – and I’m thankful
for the great Spanish practice! He wants me to come live with him in Mexico
City… I’m sure you can guess how old he is.
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| Protests for the disappeared close the city center |
Despite all the fun and frivolity – Mexico City can be but an
island of functionality, [marriage] equality and general prosperity juxtaposed
against a backdrop of drug-cartel-controlled surrounding areas. September 26
will go down in history as a major flash-point – that day Iguala city police (just
130 miles outside of Mexico City) rounded up 43 student protesters and handed
them over to brutal drug traffickers who allegedly
then tortured and killed the students, burning and dumping their remains. Thousands of Mexicans have
disappeared (even a friend noted he knew someone hiding from drug lords because
he refused to pay a tribute). This egregious massacre turned heads and
hearts. Yet, with the drug trade alive and well – (due also to use in the US)
it’s still unclear what it will take to change the power of drug cartels.
While I was there, students from every school in Mexico City marched in a
protest-parade to call attention to the many disappearances across the country.
It was incredible to see the main thoroughfare of the city closed and filled
with agitated people shouting for justice – this may disrupt transportation –
be wary of the subways during these periods – and also rush hour (especially
the central pink line). Unless you don’t mind being squeezed into subway cars and
jostled!
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| Teotihuacan - Pyramids of the Americas |
If you need to duck out from the hustle – take a trip over
to UNESCO site
Teotihuacan to see some of the “Pirimides” some of the oldest structures in North
America. Definitely worth the 1-2 hour bus trip (and $4 ride) take a friend and enjoy the
beautiful stonework – and the grand sight. Although this is one of those,
check-off-the-box places – meaning I’m not likely to go back unless I’m showing
a close friend – it’s definitely worth seeing!
While it may be in some general (justified) upheaval over
the recent disappearances– Mexico City itself seems as safe as any big city can be – and the vast majority of its people will always bend over backwards to help you if you do find yourself in a
jam (although don’t trust those taxi-drivers, watch for your destination on GPS!). And you don’t really need to worry about the narcos if you’re not Mexican – but of
course be mindful of your surroundings. Easier still to simply find yourself a
guide – some Mexicans are so generous they will beg you to be at your side!
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Video coming soon - my coup - dancing on stage with
Spanish DJ/drag group "Que Trabaje Rita" in Mexico City |
