Friday, March 28, 2014

Cologne: Smaller Towns Make for Bigger... Smiles!

Ready for the night after my (delayed)
Ryanair flight from Malaga.
In searching for a cheap route to Berlin for one of the world's largest tourism conferences – I decided to fly to Cologne since (evil) RyanAir offered an irresistible price (and I've never been). Of course, the flight was delayed 2 hours, cutting my time in the city to just about 9 hours in total. Still, I ventured out in the dark around this big-small town and found (gay) fun on a Friday night.

My first stop after exiting the central train station - and taking in the incredible views of the Dom - (naturally) was for a beer. I confirmed that, yes, I could legally traverse the city with my open bottle – of course, it's Germany! In Europe, beer is like a soft drink - as it should be. I set out with my Reissdorf Kölsch towards the gay area around Rudolfplatz and the main bar street, Schaafenstrasse.

Friday, March 14, 2014

Dublin: Drinkin' and Duckin' inside from the Damp

My Certificate!
"Black pool" or "Silt-pit" - an appropriate Irish translation for of this dark, medieval city. Despite the weather - Ireland has loads of exciting history from the great authors (& the most famous gay one, Oscar Wilde) to the many failed fights for independence. I look to the fighting Irish to write more great history – if we can just do something about the somber, damp climate. Of course, compared to New York or Washington (and really anywhere from my homeland, the Midwest) it's warmer in the winter; the sea keeps Dublin above freezing, though barely breaking 70 in the summer. Never fear – its always warm, friendly and fun in the pubs – and the gay scene competes with most medium-sized cities!

Adding to the fun, the city is full of latinos – from Brazilians to Spaniards to Mexicans – looking to learn English. Maybe it’s similar to learning Spanish in Andalucía; if you can understand Irish-English, you can understand it all! Each told me they miss the sunny & warm climates at home - but this usually = poor economic conditions. Ireland continues to turn around economically - and remains flexible with work and study visa programs; the Irish are generally welcoming to immigrants.

View from the top of the Guinness Storehouse!
What's to do?

Tourist sites abound – but you can’t go wrong to do a Free Tour – and swing by the major sites, at least. The Guinness Storehouse is obligatory of course, you can’t come all the way to Dublin without feeling the foam tickle your upper lip from this key export – and for the commercialized “museum” it does just fine, providing you with adequate Guinness – and the only major viewpoint to see entire city! Visit an hour or so before sunset so you can make your way to the top for a pint & perfect end to the evening.

Hit up the pubs!

Start your evening with drinks at the Front Lounge – the front part is for lesbians – the back-door states "Back Lounge" for the gay boys but it’s the same, open-floor broad bar-space. Quite a happening place – and especially the night I arrived, when England-Ireland just competed in Rugby (Ireland lost but the mood was not somber!). Lesbians were out in force – joined by dozens of gay boys without a clue why they were outnumbered.
Brazilians abound in Ireland!

After some pints – or just regular cocktails (yes, they exist here too) – head to the "linchpin of Ireland LGBT life," The George for an incredible night of dancing and consorting with gays of all stripes! The walkways, stages & bars seem to never end. On Thursdays & Fridays (especially) you can also hit up The Dragon, another bar & club – just a short walk further south on S George Street. Some told me (online) Brazilians had overtaken the club, but I'm not sure why this is a problem:  hot Brazilian, friendly, fun guys who want to learn English; yes please! Plus you get to see them all excited when the DJ caters to the crowd and plays a few Brazilian songs, before returning to tried and true hit pop singles.

Afterwards, late-night food options abound – but directly across from The George is Charlie’s (four) Malaysian & Chinese Cafe (apparently the 4th in Dublin!). Get your black-bean chicken with "chips" (or just rice). If you prefer a burger to soak up the alcohol, Rick's is also on the corner. I didn’t go to Dublin for the cuisine – but the greasy stuff in this city is best for late night food!

Everyone has to go at least once!
During the week you can drop by C. U. Next Tuesday, a mixed dance party – it appears everyone’s a little bit gay in Dublin (the guys I met seemed a bit flexible). Still, this is definitely not an all-gay party – it's for young post-modern gays with girlfriends and “straight” or maybe even really straight guy friends. You can sign up online (look for the latest Facebook event) – and arrive before 12:30 if you want to avoid cover.

And if you miss the weekend in Dublin, never fear, you can always drink & dance until 4 am at Copper Face Jack’sbut be careful! This infamous bar & disco is one of the most profitable bars in the world - recording nearly 7 million in profits last year!

Legend in the making

Proud to be on Team Panti!
One last perfect pub making waves internationally – is Panti Bar run by new gay-icon Miss Panti Bliss. With popcorn "tea-dance" Sunday, 80s-night Thursday and drag nights with Queen Panti Bliss herself (Rory O'Neill), you can never go wrong. This friendly neighborhood bar is in the news of late because Panti accused Ireland's anti-marriage equality groups of homophobia ("well duh!" you say?). After the on-air comments were made, defamation lawsuits were filed against the public TV station. Consequently, claiming they had no other choice, the public station ended up paying a settlement of 85,000 to homophobic, anti-equality Iona Foundation and Irish Times columnist John Waters.

In response, Panti spoke out eloquently about being gay, garnering international acclaim (and half a million web hits) and has fully expanded and focused attention on LGBT rights in Dublin. The Dublin community (gay & straight) has build up a social media campaign that has taken off around the country and world - and made it back to the TV station. On Twitter and around town #TeamPanti is often seen in restaurants and venues gay & straight. Even the Pet Shop Boys are joining the cause, including her incredible speech in their most recent CD.

Kick back with a Guinness and take in this incredible speech!

Monday, March 3, 2014

Gibraltar: Choice Chunk of Beautiful Spain, In The British Suburbs


Stunning views back at Spain - from the top of "The Rock"
The first person I met told me point-blank, Gibraltar may be a country – but it’s really just a town. A place where everyone knows your business, people are generally friendly… but strange as well because it’s also bilingual – where you often hear Spanglish! Yet don't be fooled that this equates to sophistication – it’s just a way of life. However, what Gibraltar lacks in high culture, it makes up in sheer natural beauty: from the daring seclusion of the Mediterranean Steps to incredible vistas from the top of "the Rock" a trip here is worth at least 24 hours! Furthermore, what’s convenient is you can comfortably walk around the entire country in one day - just remember, this is a different country, you need your passport!


While views from the top of "the Rock" provide the best photo-ops, the “look at me mom” moment comes first when you walk across a working runway to enter the country! Whether you drive in, take the bus or walk, as I did, you’ll have to cross Gibraltar International's runway! Flights cut off traffic in and out of the “country” for about 15 minutes anytime a plane lands; it's only place in the world where you’ll get to cross paths with planes!

Gibraltar's runway separates the
country from Spain
Up in the clouds, you can take in the entire runway on one end and Morocco on the other, all within an hours walk. I don’t recommend anyone to take the cable car (unless you are physically challenged in some way). The best way to see the mountain and all its beautiful views is by foot – it takes less than an hour to go up, if you don’t stop at the sights (which you will). Enjoy fascinating history of the Great Siege tunnels (firing canon inside a mountain sounds dangerous!), photograph the quaint Moorish Castle, and of course, get harassed by Europe's only population of monkeys– some of whom will now be deported!

About.com really hates on Gibraltar in their post, as if you would come here just to visit animals! The monkeys act only as a fun distraction from the true beauty of the location. Plus, they are cunning! As I updated Instagram with my latest self-pic – one clever monkey grabbed & rifled through my bag. I grabbed it back – but not before he knew an avocado lie inside! Afterwards, I only later realized, he lay in wait at the top of the only exit to the viewpoint. Unknowingly, I took pictures of the cute guy from afar – not knowing he only waited to steal from me!

Cunning mono waits at the exit to take my food!
Finally, after taking enough photos – (the best views are certainly not from the very top) departed the top of the peak. I took another picture of the monkey sitting atop the stairwell and swung my bag behind me. As if taking a cue, as I descended the stairs, the monkey joined me, jumped onto my bag, and pulled out the bag with avocado. I struggled and ripped it out of his hands – this cunning monkey would not be rewarded for his guile! Later, I ate that avocado. Perhaps he needed it more – but I refuse to reward those who only steal…

Then again – maybe I should have offered it as a reward for all those fun photo-ops – but I felt more harassed than be-friended by these kinda-cute but pretty-disgusting animals. Let’s face it – I’m not exactly Ace Ventura.

“Nightlife”

Saturday evening my new (gay) friend – who works as a virtual BlackJack dealer, at an online gambling casino – took me out to  Casemates Square, where veryone who wants to be social joins together weekend (and weekday) nights. At the "best bar"we found a “hen” party. I’ll go ahead and express how strange this British-English term is to me – but the term is nothing like the horror I felt at witnessing this mess of drunken, 35 + women. Nonetheless they clearly had the time of their lives, singing karaoke to anything – including Christmas carols. My friend had starred in Gibraltar’s version of American Idol – Gibraltar’s Got Talent (he's in the center of this cover pic) – so he wanted to show off his singing skills. Eventually he got his chance – and did well when he wasn’t being harassed by the chavs!

Gayographer finds a place to set the self-timer...
Literally next door to the “grown-up” bar kids between the ages of 8 to 17 hung around outside next door – like an adult playground with kids socializing and carrying on. I’ve never seen so many kids hanging around together at once not playing a game or, individually, video games! I’m pretty sure I related better to this group than drunken adults!

There is one true gay-bar - Charlie's Hole in the Wall - perhaps this article gives his place justice, but according to my friend, it's only really open when a cruise ship stops through. Of course, social media “opportunities” abound – but certainly not great ones. Generally, if you’re between the ages of 18-30 it's likely you've left for more excitement elsewhere. Except - not surprisingly in a location with a great clash of cultures - Gibraltar has done well recently in beauty, Maroua Kharbouch came close to winning Miss World and Miss Universe! Residents may leave, but likely return yearly - especially in the winter - to enjoy the sun and take in the beautiful views.


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Tuesday, February 18, 2014

Málaga & Torremolinos: Keeping the TH in AndaluThía


Note:  No current information exists online for Malaga LGBT life - so this post serves as the only comprehensive listing for Málaga and Torremolinos.

I'm told Málaga serves as the 3rd best city for gay life, and with Torremolinos this is likely true, especially as a sunny get-away for those winter months (if you can't get to the southern hemisphere). Yet winter remains low season here - so don't get your cute suits packed just yet! Sunny days in winter are incredible - you can feel that heat - but the damp cold does put a damper on anything further than a nice run on the sand. December, January & February are also the area's rainiest (yes, we're still technically in Europe) - but Spain is far from London or Amsterdam for the weather (¡no te precupes!). 

Torremolinos - Gay Capital of Andalucia

In Spain (and the latin world, generalmente) Drag shows mean
comedy shows (still with a dance at the end). Here also, heteros
parade on-stage, instead of the gays!
It’s a true touristy-beach town - with rare architectural flourishes apart from obligatory features for grandiose hotel views on the beach and cute Spanish tapas bars. Sure the cookie-cutter, square cement buildings in La Nogalera are spruced up with flashy lights & shiny surfaces - that's only on the interior! While the beaches are beautiful - the bar area is cramped & (at least now) not too exciting - with a line up of similar small bars and a couple more popular ones. In any case, la gente, la playa & la fiesta are the only reasons you’ll come to Torremolinos and of course, Spain has the best of these!

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The popular spot in the center of La Nogalera (the gay complex) is now Eden Copas. For February, the bar/lounge held a strong audience (~100 people) for a drag show until 4am and other places did have some customers. For a less crowded option, try any of the spots along the main drag - you’ll likely have your pick of drink deal options.

Center of La Nogalera, gay
ghetto of Torremolinos
Very few gays I met (as you know, this skews young) really enjoy the scene here - especially during low season - but all told me to visit Passion and mainly for the end of the evening (3-7am). Listed as "gay-friendly", the disco has weekend acts and parties for all. Famed DJ Loco Dice made my entrada $42 this weekend - but it's usually 10-15 ($13-$18). Depending on who or what you like, you can also browse the very-dated dedicated website or another with a long list of venues - but you'll have to reach out (gaytlas.com) to get the latest info!

You can also try Pantheon later in the night - but remember later in the night isn’t 2am - it's more like 4! Cute promoters standing in the center will be handing out free drink passes - it's Spain, so be friendly - the promoters are cute enough anyway. Of course, if you want to chug jungle-juice, take advantage of a chupito gratis, but otherwise you won’t need to bother. As always, if it’s being promoted, it’s unlikely to be worth attending! 

El Carmen close to the popular Plaza
de Merced - kitchy & usually crowded
Quality, value food is difficult in tourist-land - but if you’re looking to stray from tapas (like I was after 6 weeks in España) check out Tiki - it’s bound to be packed, so you may need a reservation at the height of the season, but it's hip - and I can’t imagine eating sushi anywhere else! For local fare, follow the locals to Bodegas Quitapenas conveniently located between the beach & clubs, at the top of the stairs & ramps that lead to the center. Head out for dinner at 11pm - eat, and hit the clubs!

Back in Málaga's Center

Opps she caught me!
Malaga’s gay scene is pretty typical of a smaller, mid-sized city. On weekend nights, you start drinks at the chic, but grown-up El Carmen (which also doubles as a café & bar all week) or at What's Up. Then move on to Reinas (but don't Google it - the new address is not updated online), a recently moved & renovated bar with a dance floor. At the end of the night - you get to say to your friends “¡Vamos a la cama!” nope, not what you were thinking - La Cama (formerly Orisha's here on Google Maps) is a dive-disco - that closes the evening (slash morning!). ¡Va a La Cama! around 4am and stay until 5 or 6 (on Friday or Saturday).

Weeknights you can also chill at café-bars Calle de Bruselas or back at El Carmen on opposite ends of the north side of Plaza de la Merced, a main focal point of the nightlife. El Carmen even holds Drag Bingo on Thursdays! Afterwards, see if you can handle taunts from Drag Queens at Peter Pan, which is also open Thursday to Sunday. After taking this picture, this Queen took me to task en español for 5-10 minutes. It's always fun to be the butt of the jokes - and point of jubilation - especially when you have no idea what's happening.

Food & More in Malaga

Hip newly re-relocated bar &
disco near Plaza de Merced
For great tapas for decent prices (2.5) - check out Los Gatos in Uncibay Plaza – not only a great value but los camareros más divirtidos and a bull to boot! You can get cheaper tapas, of course – but they won’t have as much calidad (quality) - Don't believe me? check out more recent tapas reviews. For quantity, más barato price (it is crisis after all) hit-up El Tapy back near Plaza de Merced (where the gay bars are) or Vacaloca right off the main-drag Larios. Also, a good meeting point & cafe is Ultimo Mono (just off Constitution Plaza).

If you're looking for LGBT info - visit the LGBT Center Colegas Malaga they hold meetings at 8pm on Friday's - but you can drop by anytime. Antonio helped me finalize the updates for this post!

And if you need a budget place
to stay - Oasis Hostel isn't
a bad place to wake up!
If you feel like exploring ex-pat land (Spanish boys are friendly, but sometimes more difficult to make into friends) party at the Oasis Hostal Rooftop - and head out on their weekend or weekday bar crawl - people here are employed to drink Monday-Saturday! Or attend one of the diverse Erasmus parties with people from all over the world. If you're trying to aprender español you can join the Pachange Inter-cambio language exchange - and speak with Spaniards who often desperately (crisis remember!) want to learn English - for only a euro!

If you're planning a summer adventure, Trip Advisor can show you how things have worked in the past, but as the weather warms, I'll provide an update with the best gay-beach info. If you're here now, or on your way -- I guarantee this is the only place you'll find the latest info about gay Malaga!

Come, enjoy some warmth in the winter, learn Spanish (with that cute Adaluthian accent) and meet the friendliest people in the world.


In Spain, you must grab the bull by its horns...
yours truly, the @GAYographer




Wednesday, February 5, 2014

Málaga: Searching for the Sun in Europe!

Malagueta Beach east of the city center
The warmest place in Europe can still be cool (and I’m talkin’ tiempo) – but that’s the only part that’s unfriendly. Whether you’re hostel hopping around Spain – or taking some time off to learn Spanish (like me), Málaga is a perfect locale to soak in the Sun as well as Spain. Beaches, check, Palm trees, check, new friends from all over the world, check – what more really matters?

You might not make it to Málaga if this is your first time to Spain – you’ll likely plan to swing through Granada, do the very-American touristy/study-abroad thing in Sevilla or keep to the biggest, best urban centers Barcelona & Madrid – Málaga might not make your list. But if you’re coming here to live, it’s definitely on a short list.

And you won’t be alone – from familiar westerners to more far-from-home Russians, South Koreans & Chinese – everyone’s here taking advantage of Spain’s beauty combined with its fabulous weather (must I repeat: Spain is the best place on earth). There's good reason that Spain is the #3 destination for study abroad for US students, nearly 10 percent of the quarter-of-a-million students abroad choose here. Of course, this is the only reason NOT to come:  Brits, Germans & Americans do take over a bit - but you'll still meet Spaniards if you are determined to speak Spanish. (At my inter-cambio language exchange on Monday a Spaniard told me he rarely sees foreigners - but I think he's not looking...)

Surrounded by the harbor and beach, Málaga's city center's near perfect weather is only surpassed by it’s beauty. Cold here is 50 (that’s 8 C) – but if you look around in the winter, you would think it’s 32 based on the dress! To be fair, it’s a different feeling when its’ wet and cold – and it can be a bit windy and rainy this time of year (but thats only a few months - or I hope, weeks!). It’s still the warmest place in the land-mass of Europe - and the sun still feels warm here & shines more than half the time in winter.

Gibralfaro - Nothing beats a great sunset with mountains & cityscape!
My favorite attraction is the viewpoint (Mirador) from Gibralfaro, on the hills above the Alcazar – but there’s a few more, including the Picasso Museum, City Center with lovely Calle de Larios, and Cathedral, - the typical places that make each city in Spain so special. The place to get food and drink (& not too caro) is Bodega de Pimpi or El Pimpi. Drink with new friends there overlooking a Roman amphitheater. If you get tired – or get lost – wandering through the city center, you can always find the water and walk along the beautiful (if touristy) waterfront, and look back at the Alcazar and city center & shop and eat shops and restaurants.

And during these cooler times, gays are online in full force – but you’re looking for the student crowd stay away from January & June these “cram times” mean less students out (or at least Spaniards). Yet the party rages in the city – as Europeans continent-wide try to find somewhere close to keep warm for the winter. Just yesterday, I heard Málaga - or more specifically just south in Torremolinos - is the 3rd gayest place in Spain after Madrid's Chueca & Barcelona's Sitges (and you'll note each includes a dedicated LGBT webpage!).

I'm headed to the gay spots this weekend - so I'll save my gay-Málaga post for the next! Suffice it to say, you can always find friends & fun if you seek it - and have patience. For example, you could just chill out at a hostel - who knows - a cute, eager "gap year" student might swing through town with all his girlfriends... ;)

Back to learning spanish and trying to meet Spaniards for now!

Tuesday, January 28, 2014

Iranian Diplomat Welcomes Gay Tourists - More Friendly than Eastern Europe at Global Tourism Conference

Andalucía took over an entire pavillion - exciting displays!
Where does the government spend millions on tourism displays even just for Andalucía? Only in Spain, where tourism truly is the industry FITUR is one of the world's largest tourism conferences held in Spain annually & so I attended representing Capital Hostels as well as my nascent LGBT business (the world's 1st global gay concierge!). I spent the majority of my time talking to extremely helpful IGLTA reps and meeting exhibitors and representatives from specific gay tourism enterprises.

But then, I got excited about an idea. What if I went around to each booth and simply asked for LGBT-specific information? Of course, it became only a small, very unscientific test - restricted by my lack of spanish language skills, sometimes absent booth attendants and lack of global attendance. However, it proved fun and exciting. Most surprising: the excited and engaging responses from Iran and Turkey compared to Poland and Romania, who basically "leveled with me" that gays aren't welcome in Eastern Europe! Is it money these friendly darker faces want or simply Eastern Europe's more direct, cold culture compared to always-welcoming Persians? Maybe, but overall, the tourism industry did want LGBT travelers (no surprises here!).


FITUR's Gay Test


Monday, January 20, 2014

Putin's Olympics: In the End, Golden for Gays?


This blog is about travel - but after recent experiences conversing with new friends abroad, I'm inspired to ensure other LGBT travelers are armed with cultural realities as well as reflect on how LGBT people can affect change.


It's sometimes difficult – especially after living inside the gay-bubble of Washington, DC - to imagine the difficult, solitary lives gays lead (and the entire LGBT family) outside of urban centers and the "civilized" West. For those with the means, we owe it to activists that suffered and even died to provide the better quality of life we lead - to do what we can to support LGBT people suffering abroad. The opportunities to affect change are global, but the problems (as well as solutions) can be summed up by focusing in on Russia’s new “anti-propaganda” law in the run-up to Sochi.

With swift pronouncements, protests and online posts, LGBT rights activists and right-minded politicians condemn Putin's law – galvanizing the western world to oppose the law. However, hidden from most people's awareness, is the reality that this plays exactly into Putin’s power at home. Also, his recent not-so-charming offensive to address the law's condemnation is not positive for the LGBT community; he's still playing to his base. Hatred abroad only shores up his most radical support at home. While he stands up to the West against "child-molesting" gays - who knows what shady deals he's hiding from his own people, let alone the world. Whatever transpires in Sochi, the LGBT rights issue has been brought to the fore, and with the correct thinking and directed work this might actually become a win for Russian gays and the global LGBT community.


Monday, January 6, 2014

Sevilla: Hot Hidden Jem - Another Reason to Love Spain


View from Metropol Parasol
With the economic crisis, you would think Sevilla would seem dirty (maybe like Athens) with poor lining the streets or poorly maintained neighborhoods. Nope - Sevilla is open for business (even in the stifling heat of August)! Whether it's keeping the tourists coming or just keeping people employed, Sevilla appears immaculate, with beautifully manicured parks and drives, clean streets and pedestrian areas (though they must be hosed down every night). Lose yourself in the cobblestone streets in the old town, make friends and party all night long with the students and backpackers from Germany to Japan.


Saturday, December 28, 2013

Stockholm: Europe's Grown-up, (But Still Fun) Gay Uncle


You know that older, endlessly single guy in the family who spent the 80's and 90's partying it up? Well now (since he survived all the drugs & HIV) he's gay-married, owns a posh house in the best part of town and maybe even adopted. That's Stockholm for you. It's possible he'll feel rowdy sometimes - so he'll go party outside Sweden. He's more conservative now, makes good money (he also better be paying if you come visit him). The preppy but-not-arrogant town is an uber post-modern gay place & most boys are looking for more than one night! I'm happy to report they still have fun gay parties - but the gays often travel south, even in the summer, for warmer fun.

Tel Aviv Pride Pic - via Sweden gay mag QX!

While everyone must visit Stockholm, I definitely recommend summer when its beautiful & the warmest - and especially for Pride (if you buy tickets now - it's 2 for the price of one!). The city is clean and quaint with endless pastel-colored blocks, historic promenades and a respected royal family (including at least one gay former king). Furthermore, the people are friendly and helpful if you're lost, if not entirely warm (I'm from Minnesota - I know how we can be "nice"). For all your gay questions, refer to QX magazine - where I was excited to be featured (not surprisingly, they covered Tel Aviv Pride!).

Sunday, December 1, 2013

Hong Kong: Asia's NYC; Minus Hipsters, Plus Natural Beauty


View from a friend's high-rise apartment!
Like New York City on dramatic cliffs (and without Broadway or Brooklyn) this gritty, frenzied financial center has the best and the brightest - of Asia and the world - from dining experiences to languages and ethnicities. Millions flock to the city, whether consult for a top multi-national or entertain, feed and clean for those energetic businessmen & women. It is also becoming Asia's art hub - with exhibitions and the planned opening of Asia's MOMA! If you feel like some spectacular views, smartly dressed yuppies & (what else in Asia) shopping galore - you've found it! 

But wait - what country is it?

Technically, the UK gave Hong Kong back to China in 1997, but (thankfully) with a number of caveats. China may appoint the Chief Executive, but the "city-state” has its own passport stamp and visa card – its own money (printed by each of the banks!) and it certainly doesn’t feel like China (and Hongkongers don't feel Chinese). Cantonese is spoken - "thank you" is "uhm-goi" (or "doh-jeh" if it's a gift you are receiving) not the mandarin "sheah-sheah" - and English is also an official language. Furthermore, it might be busy with throngs of people – but they are not running over each other in the street, like the "metropolis-villiage" of Beijing.

Friday, November 15, 2013

Taiwan: The Best Gifts Arrive in Smaller Packages!


View of Taipei at Sunset!
It’s incredible to see two countries with the same history, heritage and culture act so differently. If anything is a true reflection of the terrible effects of Chinese-style communism, it’s the vast difference between China and Taiwan. The “Beautiful Island” has kept in touch with the classic food, conservative, chivalrous values and enterprising, if bureaucratic, nature of the Chinese – while becoming an open, advanced, and civilized society, unlike much of its overflowing, polluted, backward mother-land. Whether it’s the influence of western culture or its smaller size, visitors to Taiwan will find a much more livable place to thrive than across the Strait.

Look at that HUGE space left for
peds to walk in!
I witnessed this difference everywhere. On the streets of Taipei, cars and even motorbikes (!) stopped BEFORE pedestrian walkways. In China – it’s a miracle anyone even obeys traffic lights! The Taiwanese are by and large a very friendly people – plus most speak at least some English (compared with my tea-scaming Chinese thieves). Every time I had a problem or a question, all were friendly, smiling and open to showing me the way. The clubs were thriving with smiling, engaged and excited people – as opposed to many shy conservative guys in China (although, don’t get me wrong Taiwanese are plenty shy!).

For all these reasons, Taiwan served to be my favorite destination overall in Asia.  Thailand was more inexpensive for the same value with amazing beaches and better food (my next favorite) and Hong Kong was a well-dressed yet gritty metropolis, still Taiwan wrapped things up in the best way from reliable services to the most fun clubs – with lots of natural beauty to boot!

Thursday, October 31, 2013

Tea House Scam: Ashton's Revenge - Part 1


Here I conquer the Great Wall of China, but I had some other exploits in Beijing!

Most know me as a smiling, happy-go-lucky kid who's rarely out for revenge.  Well, this might change that.  However, the way I was treated by only a few select Chinese will explain why.

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In my critical blog about China, I explained the tea house scam - charming girls or guys looking to "practice english" or "get to know foreigners" only to lure you to a pre-planned, illegal venue and overcharge or outright rob you. Perhaps these particular Chinese girls and guys see themselves as welcoming foreigners; that they provide a service, even if that price isn't advertised when they smile and ask where you're from. Maybe they guess (correctly) that most people can afford a $5 soda or $15 "traditional tea", but it's still unfair to do so in an underhanded way - plus they steal credit card information, force you to pay for others and charge ridiculous extra fees.
Who would suspect these cute girls, but why do they need
big sunglasses? The sun is barely visible through the smog!

Let's start from my first encounter in Shanghai where a group of 2 girls and a guy approached me; smiling and friendly, they wanted to take a picture with me. They guy was talking a mile-a-minute spinning stories about his hometown of Harbin and discussing why northern Chinese are taller (they are farther from the sun!). I actually was in the middle of trying to find a friend in the park - but this seemed like a neat opportunity to meet people so I chatted a bit - and then they asked, "have you tried China's traditional teas? We're going just around the corner to have some - come along!" I had to meet my friend, but they insisted it would just be a minute - so I obliged. The key to all of this was putting me in such a great mood and making it feel like a shared experience; these kids were pros!


Tuesday, October 22, 2013

Tea House Scam: Ashton's Takes His Revenge - Part 2


You should know that it took a long process that brought me to my final solution - and decision to act out against the Chinese who robbed me, a process where I decided police and authorities would not help me; I had to set down a marker. I acted alone as a vigilante, but I did so to represent a group of vulnerable people without a voice:  tourists.

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The fake Dashanqing "Tea House" entrance
before I took action.

Cleverly, these Tea House scammers preyed on a group of people in Beijing least organized and most vulnerable, while at the same time the wealthiest. But after seeing what they had done myself and then witnessing others experience that same "gotcha" feeling, I decided I should act.

You see, these Chinese people not only robbed me physically, but they robbed me emotionally; they robbed me of my excited happy feeling in coming to a new country. On my first day in Beijing, I encountered not genuinely friendly people, but desperate, manipulative thugs in the guise of innocence -- and they were doing this to victims again and again.

Wednesday, October 16, 2013

Tea-House Scam: An Avenge Attempt? - Part 3


Of course, after committing a crime like defacing a building you just have to return to the scene to see what's happened. Yet, who knew the tea-scammers would approach me again!


Much of the overcrowded Beijing
Subway is at least fresh & new!
Feeling a bit paranoid the next morning, I worried the police would find me and I knew I should avoid the crime scene. However, the previous night they would have lost any attempt to trail me, even if it was by accident! On my comedic return home, I got off the last train at the wrong stop - and then, unable to hail a real cab (as often happens; cabbies hate English speakers), an old man in a tok-tok-cart (like rectangular metal box on wheels) finally picked me up. Neither he nor I could figure out how to get me home (again remember, first day in Beijing!). We meandered a long time until finally finding familiar buildings - after midnight by now, my hosts (thankfully) were in bed.

My genuine Chinese friend who didn't rob me!
So in an attempt to avoid the temptation to go back, I just played tourist that day and headed to Beihai Park, north-west of the Forbidden City - but, I must admit, still close to Tiananmen Square. Unsure of the park entrance as I walked outside the Beihai Park North Subway Station, I asked (what seemed to be) a friendly Chinese guy for directions - he and I had coincidentally left the station and train together...

Telling me it was his day off and that he too planned an afternoon in Beihai, I immediately felt uneasy - but surely not everyone planned to scam tourists. Indeed, we had a lovely day at the park and no questions arose about taking me for a drink. Still - the dirty deed I had done constantly nagged at me - I must go see it.

Sunday, September 22, 2013

Myanmar/Burma: Where's that?!


Want to go somewhere unique and developing, yet functional and relatively safe? Check out this magical Southeast-Asian nation. Despite lots of growing pains and a still shady government, adventurist tourists have discovered Burma at an exciting juncture in its history. So, if you’re looking for a challenge, beautiful sights and friendly people, come check out this emerging country. Gays are flocking here too! Being LGBT might always be difficult in a relatively conservative society, yet the predominant religion (Buddism) remains relatively ambivalent and you’re likely to find friendly eyes just like everywhere else in the world.

What’s in a name?
 
So what should you call it? Burma or Myanmar – the regime officially changed the name to Myanmar, but in the local language the words are the same. Refusing Myanmar might be a political attempt to dis the ruling junta, but for your purposes as a tourist, it really won’t matter. The people don’t care either way – some will tell you that people prefer Myanmar. After all, Burma was just the English “translation” of the word; this BBC article breaks down all the details, if you're concerned.

To gain access to the country, I used a (questionable) Internet site that actually worked out: Becoming  part of a “tour group” visiting the country, my visa request was taken care of before I arrived. At the airport, officials stapled the visa to a passport page (I'm planning to remove it, when I need more space - which will be happening soon!). It only cost me about $70USD; the visa is $30, the extra ~ $40 saved me a day of going to the embassy since I was in Thailand (definitely worth the cost in time and frustration unavoidable when traversing Bangkok).

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Monday, September 9, 2013

Nepal: Kath-MAN-DU!



Can you see Mt. Everest?

Please support Nepal's efforts to survive and rebuild the historic sites mentioned below by giving to Earthquake relief funds like this one or simply text "Give Nepal" to 80088.


Kathmandu must be one of the most beautiful places to arrive by air (likely also meaning most complicated for pilots!) – as you dodge mountains and the bustling city teems from below, it feels like you’re about to land on a different planet. On the way in, you also have the opportunity (if the weather is right) to catch a glance at Mt. Everest, its outline barely visible; you have to train your eye to recognize the snow vs. the clouds. Great, I thought – I don’t have any need to climb Everest (though it might make headlines), I’ve already seen it!

For all the serene beauty on the way in, you’re about to land at one of the least-updated airports in the world. And, of course, authorities at Tribhuvan attempt to make a buck off everyone who enters. You need this or that visa for this many days – so much to hike, so much to climb. Many are not prepared with cash for the required permits and fees - I watched some young people struggle to find an ATM. My biggest problem:  I lost my pen to fill out the long visa on arrival application.

Thursday, August 29, 2013

Berlin: Lionesses, Twinks & Bears - Oh my!

Plenty of Germans wanted to see Obama...
Whatever gay scene you're looking for, you can find it - in the best ways - in Berlin. Everyone is here, from leather daddies to the baby gays. The city might be a "poor" university town, but the seat of the German government has a lot more to offer than bureaucrats & their patrons (unlike a place I know well, DC!). Hopefully with the healthy tourist industry and loads of creative young people, the city will continue to amaze.

However, this is the view most of us had!
Since the end of World War II, the city has served as a symbol for the success of capitalism and democracy - and the new center of Europe, which is why Obama visited... and also mentioned the gays!

Now the Eastern parts of the city are the most interesting - as smart entrepenures have turned old buildings into hip avant-garde party and restaurant venues - its the perfect city for Fete de la Musique (which coincided with Pride) held here since 1995, free music of all genres is played in open air venues city-wide. Venues like those at RAW near the new "up-and-coming" area (still rough, but becoming "trendy") is Neukölln. It still has a long way to go - and it's mostly an immigrant area - so no holding hands boys (Germans rarely do this anyway...)!

Friday, June 21, 2013

Poland: Where Will this Rainbow Lead?


The Zbawicelia Plaza Rainbow (gay or not) sits in one of the
 most popular -mixed hang out spots, but has suffered some
"chance burnings"
I might be taking this too far, but when 17 year old students (smartly dressed & clearly well-off) tell me Polish people are depressed and envious of others’ success – that's not good. That's only one view from the people of this cool, but cold country - yet it seems to be the case that kids are dreaming about NYC, instead of working to create success at home. Of course, it doesn’t help when you lose 1/5th of your population and then enjoy the relative ease (if not comfort) of communism for 40 years. The same students, in transit from Krakow to Warsaw, told me older family members would rather go back to live under communism.

Poland is resurgent; there is incredible potential here. Yet, first the Poles must escape the past.

Pride Parade passes by
"Stalin's Middle Finger"
The pride of Poland of course is John Paul II – and that’s also problematic. Catholicism became all this war-worn society could hold on to during the Communist era and the public and private ways that John Paul II fought back against Soviet ideologues made him their champion. Poland needs a new figure to lead them! Thus, in a deeply religious society, violent homophobia maintains an existence - and straight people lack motivation to support LGBT rights. Getting kicked in the street as well as facing violent verbal threats should not happen anywhere - but especially not in the western world!

But lets not dwell on the negative! Poland has lots to offer, from very pretty boys and girls, beautiful cityscapes, a happening night life – and even a Gay Pride not to be laughed at (mainly due to the tension in the air).


Warsaw Pride

I have never felt as protected in my life than along the Warsaw Pride parade route - not only did yellow-vested police walk just feet apart along both sides of me as we marched, but dozens of groups of swat teams, armed and suited up with full riot gear swarmed moved all over - and immediately responded to any conflict. Yet, I never thought I would get as many middle fingers - and glares from the general public. I won't go into what I was told their signs said (in Polish) about LGBT people...
Your own Ashy working it (seriously) with drag queens on the main parade party bus.